daniel593•1mo agoProlific Poster

Watched a controller board fry mid-diagnosis on a Miconic 10 last Thursday

I had the cab open, multimeter on the door logic, and poof - a capacitor just let go right in front of me. Smelled like burnt electronics for the rest of the afternoon. Anyone else ever have a component fail while you're literally testing it?

3 comments

3 Comments

william_carter1mo ago

Had that happen once on a Gen 2 Miconic, the door driver board just popped a resistor while I had my probes on the test point. Scared the hell out of me honestly. Always keep a spare capacitor kit in your bag for those older Miconic 10s, the 2200uF 25v ones go bad like clockwork. Also helps to check for bulging tops before you even power it up, saves you the smoke show.

jade_singh25d ago

That bit about having your probes on the test point when it popped is exactly why I always keep one hand in my pocket when I'm poking around live boards on those old Miconics. Did you ever figure out if that resistor blew because of a cap that was already failing, or was it just bad luck with a transient spike? I've been burned by those 2200uF 25v caps on the relay driver side too, but Simon's point about the 3300uF 35v ones being the main filter caps makes me wonder - are you seeing those bulge more than the smaller ones on the door driver boards specifically?

simon_coleman1mo ago

Bad call on the 2200uF 25v cap recommendation. Those Miconic 10 door boards actually use 3300uF 35v for the main filter caps, the 2200uF ones are the smaller decoupling caps near the relay drivers. I've seen guys swap in the wrong value and then wonder why the board runs hot. Stock up on the 3300uF 35v Nichicons instead, those are the real problem children.